In his native New Delhi, India, Akshat Sethi had very little exposure to Thai food. Actually, he had none.

But when he had his first Thai meal – a spicy basil dish – about 12 years ago at a Tempe restaurant that no longer exists, it was love at first bite.

“I was like, wow. The way the sauce married with the protein and vegetables, and the side of white jasmine rice … It was perfect,” Sethi said, voicing his words slowly as if savoring the recollection of every flavorful nuance…